With Hanukkah beginning on Sunday, December 22, I thought this was perfect timing to tell you about a new cookbook. Deep Flavors by Kenneth M. Horwitz is “a celebration of recipes for foodies in a kosher style”.
Deep Flavors by Kenneth M. Horwitz
Though my mother was raised in a kosher home, I wasn’t. My mother was only 3 1/2 when she arrived in America with my grandparents. That was in 1923 and my Bubie and Zeyda truly believed that in America anything was possible. Having escaped Tsarist Russia they were happy and proud to be able to be openly observant Jews. And they followed the laws of Kashruth to the letter. By the time I was born they had eased up on the strictness, but still wouldn’t eat pork or shellfish. Kosher style suited them to a tee.
Now I don’t follow the rules of Kashruth at all but I do love to observe the Jewish Holidays with traditional offerings. And this new book, Deep Flavors by Kenneth M. Horwitz, has lots of fabulous recipes for just that sort of menu planning. Kenneth M. Horwitz’s eclectic anthology of family recipes along with original Jewish, regional American and international recipes is a book for foodies, vegetarians and Jews who like to cook traditional and nontraditional Kosher Style food. In this book Kenneth includes reminiscences and insights about food and its preparation in a Kosher style from the perspective of a southern Jew.
With fifty-one years in a general tax and transaction practice as a CPA and lawyer, Ken Horwitz developed a creative and sharp approach to finding and fixing problems—a skill that translates well to the development of and modification of recipes based on traditional family favorites but tailored to one’s personal tastes and dietary needs.
I highly recommend Deep Flavors by Kenneth M. Horwitz!
PrintDeep Flavors Pickled Beets
It is possible to buy pickled beets from the grocery store, and Aun t Nellie’s is a brand that
has a nice taste for a commercial pickled beet, but it is somewhat diffi cult to locate. However,
there is nothing that can touch the fl avor of a home-pickled beet. I use beets that I grow in my
garden, but you can fi nd excellent beets in the grocery store or at a farmer’s market in middle
to late summer.
- Yield: 8 pints 1x
Ingredients
about 3 quarts beets, cooked and peeled
2 large sweet onions
1–1. bulbs of garlic, with cloves peeled
pickling liquid
For Pickling Liquid
1/3 cup cider vinegar
2/3 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 tablespoon salt
Instructions
First, you have to have immaculately clean jars and lids. Do not reuse a lid that has
previously been used (that is, the portion of the lid that has the seal on it). With respect to the
screw part of the lid, you should make sure that it is clean and rust-free. You can buy lids,
which are not reusable, in separate packages, as well as the screw tops, which are reusable. It
is a good idea to fill jars with water and put them in a canning pot full of water so that the jars
are covered by at least . an inch or so of water. Boil until the jars are fully sterilized. Boil the
screw tops (but not the lids) at the same time. The flat portion of the lid that has the seal on
it should not be boiled because the seal could be ruined, but it should be washed and rinsed
carefully with soap and hot water.
Using canning tongs, lift out the jars, and let the hot water drain back into the pot.
Canning tongs are very inexpensive special tongs designed to lift jars out of the boiling water.
There is no reason to risk handling hot, heavy jars with a pair of tongs that are not designed
for this purpose. Put the clean, boiled jars down on a clean towel on your countertop and
remove the metal screw tops from the pot in which you boiled the jars. Leave the water in the
canning pot to stay hot.
The beets need to be carefully washed and the leaves removed, leaving about . an inch
of stem stubble on the leaf end of the beet. Cut off the root, leaving ½ an inch to 1 inch of
root. Simmer the beets in plain, unsalted water until just barely cooked enough to slip the
skins off of the beets. Depending on the size of the beet, this could take 20 to 45 minutes.
You will have to test the beets with a thin skewer or knife and judge exactly when the beet is
just cooked and ready to have the skins stripped off. The easiest way to remove the skin is to
hold the beet under running water and to rub the skin off with your fingers. The beet itself
will still be fairly hard and not fully cooked through. If you have some very small beets out
of your garden, they will cook faster than larger beets and should be put into the simmering
beet liquid after the larger beets have cooked for a short period of time. Dispose of the water
that was used for simmering the beets.
After the skins are removed, cut the beets into desired shapes and sizes, leaving very small
beets whole but cutting larger beets into slices or quarters. Put the beets directly into the
jars with onion slices and garlic cloves, filling as tightly as possible. You could, of course, use
whole, small, peeled onions. Finally, after the jars are filled with onions, beets, and garlic, you
will need to fill the jars with a hot pickling liquid prepared in the following proportions.
For the pickling liquid:
For 8 pints of beets, you can estimate that you will use at least 6 or 7 recipes of the
pickling mixture. Make extra; it is cheap, and you can dispose of the excess, or you can use it
for easy Refrigerator Cucumber Pickles (Chapter 7). The pickling mixture should be put in a
stainless steel–lined pot and brought to a boil immediately prior to filling the jars. You should
use a funnel with a very large opening at the bottom designed to fit within the pickling jars so
that you do not make a mess on your counter as you are pouring the liquid into the jars. As
with the canning tongs, this funnel is very cheap.
After you ladle the hot liquid over the beets, leaving at least . an inch headspace, jiggle
the jars to remove air bubbles and to readjust the liquid level before sealing. The open space
between the jar contents and the lid is critical to the creation of a vacuum for safe storage.
Wipe the edges of the jar with a clean, moistened paper towel. Screw on the jar lids,
tightening only to light hand pressure. It is not necessary or desirable to overtighten, although
the fit should be firm. Place the jars carefully into the same canning pot in which you sterilized
the jars, using the same already hot (actively boiling) water. Using the canning tongs, place
the jars in the pot so that they do not tip over. The liquid in the pot will now be at least 1–2
inches over the top of the jars. The pot should be brought to and maintained at a rolling boil
and should be covered. Process for at least 15 minutes. To be ultrasafe, I process longer than
the time specified in the Ball Blue Book.
After 15 minutes of boiling the filled and sealed jars, lift the jars out of the canning pot
with the special tongs, and carefully place them on a board to cool. As the jars cool, you will
hear “pops”—this is the top lid sealing to an airtight seal. If a jar does not properly seal, put
it in the refrigerator, and use it first.
Because of the vinegar in the liquid, the product is acidic, and therefore there will be no
opportunity for botulism to form. Botulism is a poison that can be created in an oxygen-free
environment, such as a vacuum-sealed jar that has not been properly processed. Because of
this I process only acidic foods such as pickles and jams and jellies with citrus or vinegar as
part of the fl avor. In addition to botulism, if the product is improperly processed and not
sterilized, the product can spoil and become inedible. If, when you open the jar, there is
obviously no vacuum, and the product appears or smells to be unsavory, or the lid is bulging,
you should dispose of it; it is not safe, and do not taste or eat it.
Notes
I generally use either wide-mouthed pint or quart jars that are intended for
home canning. As with any other canning process, I do recommend that you refer to the Bal l
Blue Book, an authoritative source as to technique—available online, at some bookstores, or
sometimes at hardware stores. This is critical to preserving safely; you do not want to poison
your family. The process is most simple, and directions for safe canning are easy to follow,
but care should be taken to produce vacuum-sealed jars that can be safely stored at room
temperature.
- Category: Condiments
- Method: Pickling
- Cuisine: Jewish
Disclaimer: I was sent a review copy of this book, but the opinions stated are 100% my own.